Atwood LawnCare

Brown Spots

Diagnosing the proverbial "brown spot" in a lawn can drive even a seasoned professional crazy. There are just so many things that can cause the lawn to turn brown and die in a spot. One thing you never want to do is to apply a control material without knowing exactly what the problem is. If you apply the wrong stuff, you may end up causing more problems than you are trying to solve.

So where do you start? Have you been watering correctly? Lack of water will cause lots of yellowing and spots. Plus other problems will become worse if a lawn is not watered correctly. Over-watering can also yellow a lawn and can kill trees and shrubs! What about mowing? If a lawn is mowed too short or not often enough, brown spots can and do appear. Is it a problem from pets? Both dogs and cats can cause spots...even if you don't own one of your own.

If all that has been taken care of, we start to look for diseases or insects. While there are millions of different insects in this world only 5 or 6 will cause damage to a lawn and about a dozen on trees and shrubs. So it is pretty easy to know what to look for. Diseases are a little harder to pick out, but again, there are only a relative few that routinely cause damage, so knowing the symptoms and signs can help narrow down the cause.

A good diagnostic book from a garden center will help you know the symptoms...or, if you are an Atwood customer, a trained service technician will come and check out your lawn or landscape for free.

The bottom line is this: There are too many different things that may cause a brown spot in a lawn or turn leaves on a tree brown. Take the time needed to properly diagnose the problem before jumping in to start controlling something. You'll be glad you took your time.

Crab Grass

Knowing when crabgrass is likely to be present is helpful in proper identification and control. Homeowners who complain of crabgrass infestations in April and May are usually identifying tall fescue, nimblewill or quackgrass.

Crabgrass germination typically begins in early May when soil temperatures reach 62 degrees Fahrenheit at a depth of 1 to 2 inches, or about two weeks after the forsythia blooms begin to drop. To be effective, preemergence herbicides must be in place before germination occurs. Preemergence treatments are preferred because they are generally more effective for crabgrass control and less injurious to the turfgrass than postemergence treatments. In general, preemergence herbicides should be applied when soil temperatures reach 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit, or when forsythia is in full bloom. This will allow the preemergence herbicide to form a barrier before the crabgrass seedlings emerge. Preemergence herbicides work by inhibiting the growth of young seedlings. These products do not eliminate established plants and must be applied before germination begins. In Michigan, this is usually around April 15 but can be as late as May 1. Applications made very early in the spring have potential to break down before the end of the germination window and are, for the most part, not recommended.

This is a particular problem in the three out of 10 years when late-season conditions are conducive for a second germination flush. Delaying preemergence applications in a very cool or dry spring would provide better seasonlong control because crabgrass germination is also delayed under these situations.

Earth Worms

Earthworms dramatically alter soil structure, water movement, nutrient dynamics, and plant growth. They are not essential to all healthy soil systems, but their presence is usually an indicator of a healthy system. Earthworms perform several beneficial functions.

Stimulate microbial activity. Although earthworms derive their nutrition from microorganisms, many more microorganisms are present in their feces or casts than in the organic matter that they consume. As organic matter passes through their intestines, it is fragmented and inoculated with microorganisms. Increased microbial activity facilitates the cycling of nutrients from organic matter and their conversion into forms readily taken up by plants.

Mix and aggregate soil. As they consume organic matter and mineral particles, earthworms excrete wastes in the form of casts, a type of soil aggregate. Charles Darwin calculated that earthworms can move large amounts of soil from the lower strata to the surface and also carry organic matter down into deeper soil layers. A large proportion of soil passes through the guts of earthworms, and they can turn over the top six inches (15 cm) of soil in ten to twenty years.

Increase infiltration. Earthworms enhance porosity as they move through the soil. Some species make permanent burrows deep into the soil. These burrows can persist long after the inhabitant has died, and can be a major conduit for soil drainage, particularly under heavy rainfall. At the same time, the burrows minimize surface water erosion. The horizontal burrowing of other species in the top several inches of soil increases overall porosity and drainage.

Improve water-holding capacity. By fragmenting organic matter, and increasing soil porosity and aggregation, earthworms can significantly increase the water-holding capacity of soils.

Provide channels for root growth. The channels made by deep-burrowing earthworms are lined with readily available nutrients and make it easier for roots to penetrate deep into the soil.

Bury and shred plant residue. Plant and crop residue are gradually buried by cast material deposited on the surface and as earthworms pull surface residue into their burrows.

Fairy Rings

Fairy rings can be identified by a dark-green circle of grass and may or may not be accompanied by mushrooms. They are caused by soil inhabiting fungi of the class Basidomycetes. There is a wide diversity of fungal species that cause fairy ring and their identification is not all that critical in assessing treatment strategies. The diameter of the fairy ring may be only several inches or it could up to 50 feet.

So what causes the dark green circle and the inner circle of dead turf? The dark green circle is caused by the fungi breaking down organic matter in the soil and releasing nitrogen that then becomes available to the plant. This is simply the fungus fertilizing the turf. Unfortunately, the mycelium of the fungi penetrates deep into the soil and becomes so dense it essentially prevents any moisture from penetrating the soil. The effect is that the turf above the mycelium dies from lack of water, thereby creating the inner circle of dead turf.

What can be done about these dancing fairies? In home lawns, fairy ring often doesn’t kill the turf but rather is unsightly to those pursuing a uniform green lawn. In those cases, don’t worry about trying to get rid of fairy ring, but simply maintain an adequate fertility program to mask the dark green circles of grass. Aeration of the areas affected by fairy ring and heavy irrigation will help the turf survive.

[Note: Atwood LawnCare recommends a regular fertilization program which will mask any symptoms of Fairy Ring in nearly every instance.]

If the problem is very severe and you feel action must be taken, the area can be dug up and then reestablished. However, this is no guarantee that fairy ring will not return. A more ingenious recommendation would be to kill the turf in the affected area with a non-selective herbicide and then roto-till the area in several directions to spread the mycelium evenly over the area. Fairy ring fungi are antagonist towards each other and if they are intermixed, new fairy rings will not develop.

Fusarium Blight

What you’ll see are patches of dead grass throughout your lawn. These patches may be anything from circles six inches in diameter all the way up to "donut-shaped" patterns of a dead circle with grass in the middle. This is known as a frogeye pattern and is very characteristic with Fusarium blight. Also, in almost every instance of active Fusarium blight, there will be distinctly reddened blades of grass in the outer portion of the circle.

See our Green-Up Program that removes Fusarium Blight.

The reason for the problem is a fungus that attacks the grass plant from within. The correct scientific name for this condition is necrotic ring spot, but most people know it as Fusarium blight. Although the exact reason this fungus attacks home lawns is not clearly understood, what we do know is that nearly every Kentucky bluegrass lawn will usually get the disease within 3 - 5 years after it has been installed. While this is a disease problem of the grass itself and is not a soil fungus, it is usually associated with poor soil conditions, i.e. compaction, poor drainage, and clay soils. The main trigger seems to be water or mowing stress. The symptoms generally occur in hot, dry periods when the weakened grass plant can no longer survive. However, the problem actually begins in the spring before anyone suspects anything is wrong.

The best way to control this problem is to be sure your lawn never dries out. From the earliest point in the spring until late in October, your lawn must be kept moist for it to have any chance to survive. Proper fertilization to keep the plant growing strongly also seems to have a major impact on reducing the impact of this disease. And, above all else, do not cut your lawn too low! This puts an incredible amount of stress on the plant and will force the Fusarium blight to become active almost immediately. Finally, having core aeration performed to the lawn will aid in the water moving into the root zone much better.

Moss

Moss can be a real problem and even tougher to control. Start by raking out the existing moss. Moss usually grows in damp areas with poor air circulation. So control entails first improving drainage (or removing cause of excessive moisture) and improving air circulation, if possible. Prune up low hanging branches and move fences or other obstructions to air movement. Anything to get more sunlight and air will help.

See our Core Aeration Service that loosens the soil to help eliminate moss.

Also, use Core Aeration to break up the soil. Moss will not do well in loose soils. Finally, test the soil and add sulfur to lower the pH if you can. Moss will not grow on a healthy dense turf. Be sure you are following good watering, mowing, and fertility practices to encourage a healthy lawn.

Moles

What you’ll see are lots of tunnels running through your lawn. In many instances, there will be piles of dirt throughout the yard where the mole has pushed the dirt out of the tunnel. The reason for the problem is a small, but very aggressive animal that lives below the surface of the ground. Moles forage for insects to eat and will travel long distances to feed. In Michigan, there are two prevalent species of moles.

See our Mole Control Service to get rid of damaging moles.

Eastern moles cause the visible tunnels that criss-cross your lawn. Star nosed moles will tunnel deeper and then push up a pile of dirt that looks like a volcano has erupted on your lawn. The best ways to control this problem is to trap the mole and kill it. Harpoon, choker, and other types of traps can be purchased or rented at hardware stores. Tamp down the tunnels to find which ones are the actively used by the mole. Place the trap in an active tunnel and be patient. Other options available to you include applications of a mole repellent. Eastern moles in particular do not like the smell of this castor oil based material and in most instances, will quickly leave the area. This non-toxic application will last for about 30 days and may keep the moles out of your lawn area. Of course, this means they’ll go into your neighbor’s yard! Applications will have to be repeated once the effectiveness wears off. What doesn’t work is trying to control moles by applying an insecticide for grubs. While it is true that moles eat grubs, they eat all worms, insects and bugs that are found in the soil. Just because you have moles does not mean you have a grub problem. Applying an insecticide to get rid of moles may only cause larger problems, without getting rid of the moles. Also, remedies such as chewing gum in the tunnels, whirligigs, hair and other "folk remedies" have been shown to be largely ineffective.

Mushrooms

The presence of mushrooms means there is some decaying organic matter is present in the soil. Mushrooms are a result of organic matter (old tree roots, wood, etc.) decomposing in the soil. Don't worry it won't hurt your lawn and there is nothing you can do about it. They also indicate that there is plenty of moisture in the soil. Usually the mushrooms appear after a rainfall. Once the soil dries out a little, give it about 3-5 days and the mushrooms will probably go away.

The only way to eliminate the mushroom growth is to remove the organic matter and the surrounding soil. A very big task, indeed. Mushrooms are a sign of life in the soil...and that's a good thing. Unless you are thinking of eating the mushrooms (and I really don't suggest that!) you can stop picking the mushrooms. Bear with them for a short time and they will disappear. Or, when mushrooms do appear, simply mow them off. And no, there is nothing to do to prevent them.

Weeds

Nobody wants weeds in their lawn. But the fact of the matter is that weeds are always going to be there. Weeds grow from seeds that are either deep in the soil or blown in from neighboring areas or dropped by birds. Weeds ca be divided into three types of groups: Grassy Weeds, Easy to Control broadleaf weeds and Hard to Control broadleaf weeds.

See our Weed and Feed and Crabgrass Application to rid your lawn of weeds.

Grassy Weeds: This includes the weeds Crabgrass, Foxtail and Goosegrass. These weeds are best controlled on a preventive basis. They are an annual weed which means the seeds germinate in the late spring and then the plant dies in the fall with the first hard frost. If you see something that you think is crabgrass, and it is in April...it's not crabgrass! It is probably a wild grass, and that's a whole different problem. If grassy weeds were a problem last year, then an application of a pre emergent material may be recommended. If crabgrass or other grassy weeds were not a problem last year, you may not even need to apply the material.

Broadleaf Weeds: this class would include the ever-popular Dandelion, White Clover Creeping Charlie and other common weeds. It is safe to say that there is nothing to be done to prevent weeds from popping up in your lawn. While there is a product that will prevent most weeds from germinating, it is very expensive and not used a lot for homes. (Note: It is available and very effective. Ask about it!) Typically, these weeds are handled by either a spring or fall "weed & feed" application. Interestingly, the fall application may be even more effective than the spring service, even though it is in the spring when we see the yellow flowers.

Controlling Weeds: As mentioned above, typically an application or two of a weed control product is needed to get weed populations under control. However, once that has been accomplished, good healthy turfgrass will prevent most weeds from growing. Keeping your lawn well watered and cut high will eliminate most weed competition. At that point, either hand pulling or spot treatments of weed control will keep the weeds out of sight.